Best Dog Crates for Puppies: Safe First Crates Ranked
Our Verdict
The MidWest iCrate with divider panel is the best first crate for most puppies — it grows with your dog, folds flat for travel, and costs less than most alternatives. Size it for the adult dog, use the divider now.
Crate training is one of the most effective tools in puppy ownership. A properly introduced crate becomes your puppy's den — a safe, quiet space they voluntarily retreat to when overwhelmed, tired, or in need of comfort. It also makes housetraining dramatically easier, prevents destructive behavior when you can't supervise, and keeps your puppy safe from household hazards like electrical cords and cleaning products.
But not every crate works for every puppy. The wrong size creates anxiety. The wrong material gets destroyed. The wrong design makes cleaning a nightmare. We tested crates across every major type and brand to find the ones that work best for the unique demands of puppyhood.
Why Crate Training Works
Dogs are den animals by instinct. In the wild, canines seek out enclosed spaces for rest and security. A crate replicates this instinct in a domestic setting. When introduced properly — gradually, positively, never as punishment — a crate becomes the place your puppy chooses to be.
The housetraining benefit is biological: dogs are instinctively reluctant to soil their sleeping area. A properly sized crate leverages this instinct by limiting the puppy's space to just enough for standing, turning, and lying down. If the puppy can retreat to one corner to sleep and use the opposite corner as a bathroom, the crate is too large — which is why divider panels are essential.
Critical rule: A crate is not a storage container for your puppy. Puppies under 6 months should not be crated for more than 3-4 hours at a stretch (except overnight). Their bladders simply can't hold longer than that. Excessive crating causes anxiety, not comfort.
What to Look For in a Puppy Crate
Divider Panel
This is non-negotiable for puppy crates. A divider panel lets you buy a crate sized for your dog's adult dimensions while restricting the usable space to match your puppy's current size. As the puppy grows, you move the divider back. Without a divider, you're either buying a crate that's too large for housetraining or buying multiple crates as the puppy grows.
Appropriate Material
- Wire crates: Best for most puppies. Maximum ventilation, visibility, and the puppy can see and hear you. Easy to clean (pull out the tray, wipe down). Compatible with crate covers for creating a darker, more den-like environment.
- Plastic crates (airline-style): More enclosed and den-like from the start. Better for anxious puppies who are overwhelmed by visual stimulation. Required for airline travel. Less ventilation in warm climates.
- Soft-sided crates: Not recommended for puppies. A determined puppy will chew through mesh panels in minutes. Save these for adult dogs who are already crate-trained.
- Heavy-duty crates: Necessary only for puppies showing extreme escape behavior. Most puppies don't need them — if your puppy is desperate to escape, the crating approach needs adjustment, not a stronger crate.
Easy Tray Access
Puppies have accidents. A slide-out plastic tray at the bottom of a wire crate makes cleanup a 30-second task instead of a 10-minute ordeal. Ensure the tray slides out smoothly without requiring you to move the crate or remove the dog first.
Secure Latches
Puppies are remarkably good at figuring out latch mechanisms. Double-latch doors (latching at both top and bottom) are significantly more escape-resistant than single-latch designs. Test the latch by pushing on the door from the inside — if it flexes more than half an inch, a determined puppy will eventually pop it open.
Two-Door Design
A crate with both a front and side door gives you flexibility in placement. The side door is particularly useful when the crate is positioned against a wall — you can still open the door without rearranging furniture.
The 5 Best Dog Crates for Puppies
#1 Best Overall: MidWest iCrate Double Door (~$45 for 36")
Why it wins: The MidWest iCrate checks every box for puppy ownership at a price that undercuts most competitors. The included divider panel adjusts as your puppy grows. The double-door design (front and side) provides placement flexibility. The slide-out plastic tray makes cleanup effortless. And the fold-flat design means you can collapse it for travel or storage in under 30 seconds.
The wire construction provides excellent ventilation and allows your puppy to see you from inside the crate — reducing anxiety during the adjustment period. The dog-safe coating resists rust and is easy to wipe clean. The dual slide-bolt latches on each door are secure enough to resist most escape attempts.
Available in sizes from 18" to 48", you can buy the adult-appropriate size immediately and use the divider throughout puppyhood. For a 70-lb adult Lab, buy the 42" model. For a 25-lb adult Cocker Spaniel, the 30" is appropriate.
Key specs: Wire, double door, divider included, fold-flat, slide-out tray, dual latches
Best for: Most puppies of any breed. The default recommendation.
#2 Best for Anxious Puppies: Petmate Sky Kennel (~$65 for 32")
Why anxious puppies prefer it: The enclosed plastic design naturally creates the dark, den-like environment that calms anxious puppies. Unlike wire crates where the puppy can see (and react to) every movement in the room, the Petmate Sky Kennel limits visual stimulation to the ventilation slots and wire door.
This is also the crate to buy if you'll ever need to fly with your dog — it's IATA-compliant for airline cargo and meets most airline requirements for in-cabin travel in smaller sizes. The shell is sturdy enough to prevent escape but lightweight enough for one person to carry.
The trade-off is ventilation. In warm climates or poorly air-conditioned homes, the enclosed design can trap heat. It also doesn't include a divider panel (sold separately), so you'll need to purchase one or stuff the back with a box or rolled towel to reduce the usable space during housetraining.
Key specs: Plastic shell, airline-approved, enclosed den design, ventilation slots, sturdy latches
Best for: Anxious puppies, future airline travelers, dogs overwhelmed by stimulation
#3 Best Heavy-Duty: Impact Case Collapsible Dog Crate (~$350 for 37")
Why some puppies need reinforcement: Most puppies don't need a heavy-duty crate. But puppies with severe separation anxiety, extreme escape drive, or destructive tendencies can bend wire crate bars, pop standard latches, and injure themselves in the process. The Impact Case uses aluminum construction with slam-latch door mechanisms that are genuinely escape-proof.
The rounded interior corners eliminate pinch points where a panicking dog could catch a paw or jaw. The removable floor tray is aluminum (not plastic), so it won't crack under stress. And despite the heavy-duty construction, it folds flat for transport.
At $350+, this is a significant investment. But it's cheaper than an emergency vet visit for a dog that's injured itself escaping a standard crate — or replacing the furniture, drywall, and door frames that a free-roaming anxious puppy destroys.
Key specs: Aluminum, slam-latch doors, rounded corners, collapsible, removable aluminum tray
Best for: Puppies with severe anxiety or escape behavior (after consulting a veterinary behaviorist)
#4 Best for Small Breeds: Diggs Revol Dog Crate (~$275 for 27")
Why it's worth the premium for small dogs: The Diggs Revol is the Apple product of dog crates — beautifully designed, genuinely innovative, and expensive. The diamond-pattern mesh panels are puppy-paw-safe (no gaps wide enough to catch a small paw), the door slides up instead of swinging out (no pinched tails), and the included divider uses a tool-free adjustment system.
For small-breed puppies — Yorkies, Chihuahuas, Miniature Poodles — the safety features justify the cost. Small-breed puppies have delicate legs that can slip between standard wire crate bars, and the Revol's mesh pattern eliminates this risk entirely.
The crate also includes a built-in ceiling hatch for top-loading, which is invaluable for puppies that resist walking through the front door. Lower them gently through the top until they learn to enter voluntarily.
Key specs: Mesh panels, slide-up door, ceiling hatch, tool-free divider, puppy-paw-safe
Best for: Small-breed puppies, safety-conscious owners
#5 Best Budget: AmazonBasics Double-Door Folding Metal Crate (~$35 for 36")
Why it works on a budget: The AmazonBasics crate is functionally similar to the MidWest iCrate at a slightly lower price point. Double doors, divider panel, slide-out tray, fold-flat design — the essential features are all present. The construction quality is slightly lower (thinner gauge wire, less smooth tray slides), but for most puppies it's perfectly adequate.
The latches are the main compromise — the single slide-bolt per door is less secure than the MidWest's dual-latch system. For calm puppies or puppies crated only for short periods, this isn't an issue. For escape artists, upgrade to the MidWest.
Key specs: Wire, double door, divider included, fold-flat, slide-out tray, single latches
Best for: Budget-conscious owners with non-escape-prone puppies
Comparison Table
| Crate | Price (36") | Material | Divider | Doors | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| MidWest iCrate | ~$45 | Wire | Included | 2 | Most puppies |
| Petmate Sky Kennel | ~$65 | Plastic | Sold separately | 1 | Anxious puppies |
| Impact Case | ~$350 | Aluminum | Included | 1 | Escape artists |
| Diggs Revol | ~$275 | Mesh/wire | Included | 1 + top hatch | Small breeds |
| AmazonBasics | ~$35 | Wire | Included | 2 | Budget pick |
Crate Sizing Guide by Expected Adult Weight
Buy the crate for your dog's expected adult size, not their current puppy size. Use the divider to adjust.
| Expected Adult Weight | Recommended Crate Length |
|---|---|
| Under 10 lbs | 18-22" |
| 10-25 lbs | 24-30" |
| 25-40 lbs | 30-36" |
| 40-70 lbs | 36-42" |
| 70-90 lbs | 42-46" |
| 90+ lbs | 48"+ |
Your dog should be able to stand without crouching, turn around completely, and lie down with legs extended in the crate at adult size. If they can do significantly more than that, the crate is too large for housetraining purposes (use the divider).
How to Introduce the Crate
Week 1: Positive Association
Place the crate in a common area with the door open. Toss treats inside. Let the puppy enter and exit freely. Never close the door during this phase. Feed meals inside the crate with the door open.
Week 2: Brief Closures
After the puppy is voluntarily entering the crate, close the door for 30 seconds while you sit next to it. Gradually increase to 5 minutes. If the puppy whines, wait for a brief pause in whining before opening — never open the door while the puppy is actively whining, or you'll reinforce the behavior.
Week 3: Increasing Duration
Build up to 30-minute crate sessions while you're in the room, then while you're in another room. Always provide a safe chew toy (Kong, Nylabone) for occupation. Make the crate a positive destination, not a punishment.
Week 4 and Beyond
By now, most puppies accept the crate as their space. Establish a routine: crate during your absence, crate at bedtime, freedom during supervised periods. Always exercise the puppy before crating — a tired puppy settles much faster.
Never use the crate as punishment. The moment a puppy associates the crate with negative experiences, crate training fails. If you need a time-out space, use a separate pen or room.
Frequently Asked Questions
How long can a puppy stay in a crate?
As a general rule: the puppy's age in months plus one equals the maximum hours of crating. A 2-month-old can hold it for about 3 hours, a 4-month-old for about 5 hours. Overnight is an exception — most puppies can sleep through the night (6-8 hours) by 4 months of age, since metabolism slows during sleep.
Should I cover the crate at night?
For most puppies, yes. A crate cover (or a blanket draped over the top and sides, leaving the front partially open) reduces visual stimulation and creates a darker, more den-like environment. This helps many puppies settle faster at night. Ensure adequate ventilation — never cover all sides completely.
My puppy cries in the crate. What should I do?
First, rule out physical needs: does the puppy need to potty, is it too hot or cold, has the puppy been crated too long? If needs are met, brief whining during the adjustment period is normal. Don't open the door while the puppy is whining. Wait for even a 2-second pause, then open it and reward the quiet. If crying is persistent (more than 15-20 minutes) or escalating, you may be progressing too quickly — go back to shorter durations.
Should I put bedding in the puppy's crate?
During housetraining, use only a thin, washable pad — not a plush bed. Thick bedding absorbs accidents, which allows the puppy to soil the crate and still sleep comfortably. This undermines the biological instinct that makes crate-based housetraining work. Once the puppy is fully housetrained, you can add a proper bed.
When can I stop using the crate?
Many dogs use crates voluntarily their entire lives — with the door open, it remains their preferred rest spot. For housetraining purposes, most puppies can be trusted with supervised freedom by 6-8 months and unsupervised freedom by 12-18 months, depending on breed and temperament. Transition gradually by leaving the crate open during supervised periods and monitoring for destructive behavior.
The Bottom Line
A crate is a training tool, not a containment device. Used correctly — the right size, the right introduction, the right duration — it's one of the most effective investments in your puppy's first year. The MidWest iCrate is our default recommendation because it's well-built, appropriately priced, and includes every feature a puppy crate needs. Buy it for your dog's adult size, use the divider now, and let the crate become the safe space every puppy deserves.
Related Reading
- Puppy Essentials — Complete first-year gear guide
- Dog Beds — Upgrade from crate pad to proper bed
- Dog Health — Puppy vaccination and wellness schedules
